Bottom Stop Defects

Massing Top or Bottom Stop Readily apparent and will result in zipper failure if facilities for attaching a top or bottom stop are not available. then the entire zipper. should be replaced In some instances, bottom stops are attached at garment plant An improperly or poorly attached bottom stop may be result of carelessness on part of the operator or of improper functioning of the bottom stop machine

Snap fasteners

Hard Action :  In light-weight goods this may result in stud or socket pulling through the material. The snap fastener manufacturer can be of help in recommending proper tension of stud in socket for weight of garment material

Light Action : Snap fastener does not stay closed because of lack of proper tensions. Same comment applies as for tight closure.

Hooks  & Eyes

 Improperly Applied This mostly caused by a careless operator os improperty adjusted attaching equipment and connection are usually simple when apparent improper Alignment Gauge available for attaching equipment to cure prope alignment in positioning This a necessary if garment is to have a properly tailored look if the top of the apper is extended into the waistband of the trouser than the hook and eye should be offset to prevent it from hitting the zipper material

Poor Finish: May be the result of improper finishing or pocking of the metal surface and while this defect dose not interferes with the functional operation it may not leave the desired finished appearance of the garment Tight/ Loose Closure Attaching equipment ill fitted with an adjustable feature permitting secure application of hook and eye to either light or heavyweight goods If closures seem too tight then one should immediately check the attaching equipment for proper adjustment

Buttons

Rough or Dull  Surfaces

This is not a serious fault except in cases of Surfaces  of extreme roughness or poor surface appearance

Non Uniform Inaccurately Spaced Chipped or Blocked Sew Hole

This type of defects be noted the garment manufacturing operation and can slip inspection unnoticed but it frequently causes needle breakage or cut thread.

Rectification of Defects

Few common stitching defects encountered by in – line  checkers and their  causes are listed below:

Improper Stitching	Incorrect threading  Bent needle head
Improper feeding	insufficient or too much pressure on pressure foot.   Stitch length too short.
Skip stitching	Incorrect threading Damaged needie Larger needle hole improper thread tension too bight/thread stretches when heated
Skip stitching (overedge machine)	Loopers are incorrectly set Needle to looper setting is incorrectWrong thread type
Wavy Seam	Stitch length too short Pressure too heavy or light
Wavy Seams (overedge machine)	Different feed needs increasing
Piles Feed unevenly	Incorrect pressure on the pressure foot  Piles lock or stitch together  Feed dog at incorrect height   Inappropriate pressure-foot   Inappropriate needle plate
Unbalanced Tension	Different thread on needle and bobbin Thread slipped out of tension disc   incorrect threading  Poor quality thread Bent, rusted or incorrect bobbin/improperly or unevenly wound bobbin bobbin have  several layer of thread/bobbin case screw has worked out
Unbalanced Tension  (overedge  machine)	Low power tension needs adjustment
Uneven Stitches	Thread does not feed smoothly/thread has wrong twist/thread  incorrectly threaded between  tension discs.Pressure too tight
Cracked  seam	Lint between the tension discs, guides or eyelets Bobbin or looper thread  tension too tight   Needle too small or wrong point  Threads not moving smoothly through guides or eyelets Threads are too thick for needle or  machine nas rough spots
Thread  Breakage	Poor quality thread                                        Tension too tight    Needle set improperly   Needles need replacement     Pressure bar not  down    Rough needle eye, throat plate or thread spindle
Seam grin	Snitch length too short  Thread not set into tension discs properly  Tension on needle thread too loose
Machine Jam	Machine is incorrectly threaded  Needle set incorrectly or damaged                                  Static electricity pulls fabric into needle hole               Bobbin inserted incorrectly
Unthreading of needle	Thread end too short Take up lever is not at highest position
Needle Breakage	Needle needs replacement or set incorrectly Pressure foot too loose Bobbin or bobbin case incorrectly set Pulling fabric while stitching or without raising pressure foot Fabric too thick
Bobbin Thread       breakage	Improperly threaded machine  Bobbin tension too tight  Bobbin too full  Bobbin pigtail caught in bobbin-case  Bobbin screw not working properly

Process to Rectify Few Defects

Re-  stitched Seams/Broken Stitches	Using better quality sewing threads Ensure proper machine maintenance
Open Seam Seam Failure- Stitch	Better quality threads  Proper size thread  for application  Proper tension
Seam Slippage	Change seam type if possible   Increase seam width  Optimise the stitches per inch
Excessive seam Puckering	Correct thread type and size Sew with minimum sewing tension to get a  balances stitch            Machine needle, bobbin and threads are set proper according to the fabric to be sewn
Knits & Stretch woven puckering	Set the machine properly according to the fabric                                          Minimum pressure foot pressure
Improper Stitch balance-301 Lockstitch	Use quality thread                                                                               Properly  balance the stitch so that the needle and bobbin thread meet the middle of the seam. Always start by checking bobbin tension to make sure it is set correctly, so that minimum thread tension is required to get a balanced stitch
Improper Stitch balance-401 chain stitch	Use quality thread                                                                         Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper  thread is unravelled, the needle loop lay over half way  to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam
Improper Stitch balance- 504 overedge stitch	Use quality thread                                                                                 Properly balance the stitch so that when the looper  thread is unravelled, the needle loop lay over half way  to the next needle loop on the underside of the seam
Raggeded/ inconsistent  Edge	Make sure the sewing machine knife are sham and changed often                                                                                 The knives should be adjusted properly in related to the “stitch tongue” on the needle plate to the proper seam width

Fabric Care

The proper care of clothes ensures that the garments last longer and gives one value for money and look great after a number of washings

Safe Ironing temperatures limits for fabrics

Cotton	400 o-4250 F
Linen	450 OF
Silk	300 o F
Wool	300 o F
Nylon	300 o -350 o F
Polyester	325 OF
Rayon	350 0-375 o F (Reverse and iron)
Rubber	Do not iron

Industry Visit

The purpose of visiting a tailor shop/boutique is to get hands on knowledge about vanous processes used the work of a tailor During the visit you have to interact with Tailors and owner of the shop to understand how work is done in a tailor shop/boutique Make sure that you keep a notebook handy and not down any impona points that come up during your interaction at the tailor shop/boutique. When you go to an tailor shop/boutique you should:

Inspect stitched products against specifications

Analyze how tailors:

Inspect stitched products against specifications

Carryout alterations

Sew and apply trims by hand and machine

Also Understand the inspection and possible defects.

Ask questions to Tailors/shop owners if you have any query.