Drafting and Cutting

Drafting and Cutting

Unit Objectives

At the end of this unit, you will be able to:

Understand drafting and cutting

Draft the garments

Cut the garments

Introduction

Long sleeve shirt is a common wear of men used as upper body wear Example shown in section 2.6.2 has

subsequent specifics

Selected fabrics: poplin,cotton, silk, crepe, polyester, oxford cotton

Materials required: 2 50 mts cloth width is 36″

Measurement required:

back length = 32″

n.w length = 17″

shoulder width = 17″

chest = 36″

waist = 32″

n.w length 17″

shoulder width = 17″

hip or seat 38″

sleeve length = 24″

cuff size=2%” 11″

pocket size = 5″ *5%”

Drafting and Cutting of Long Sleeve Shirt

Drafting details front part:

1-2 full length + 1″

1-3 chest/4(-) ½”, arm depth.

1-4=1/6th neck measure.

4-4a=1″ as per draft.

4a-4b” for button stand.

4b-6-1% for placket

4b-2b draw a line as per draft                    

 6-6a draw a line as per draft

1.7 = 1/2 shoulder width +1/2^ prime prime for seam. 

7 -8 = draw a line

3-9 1/3rd chest measure

10 – 4 = 1/6th neck measure

⚫ 10 -11 = draw line as per draft

10 – 12 = 1 degrees as per draft

.13-7 shoulders slope 1y 2 ^ –

14 – 2 = same as 9-3 measure.

14 -15=4\%^ as standard measure

14 – 16 = 5 % as standard measure

17 -8=1^ prime prime as per draft

⚫ 18 is a middle measure of 13-8 distance

18-19-3/4″ as per draft

13,19,17.19 draw arm hole shape with arm curve

⚫ Cut the front part

Back part:                                    

20-21= length +1″

22 – 24 = 1/4 * th chest (-)” (armhole depth)

20-25=n.1 length +1/2^ prime prime

22-23 draw a line

24 – 24a = 1/3rd chest (- 11x^ prime prime

23-23a=1″ at 45″

20-.27=1^ prime prime as per draft

• 22 – 28 = 1 degrees as per draft

⚫ 26-29=4%½” as shown in draft

26 -30=5\%^ prime prime as shown in draft

Shoulder part:

1 – 2 = 1 / l 8th chest +1/2^ prime prime

1.-3 = y shoulder width +1/2^ prime prime for seam

3 – 4 = draw a line

4 – 5=1/2^ prime prime as per draft

1-6 = ⅙ th neck + ¾.

6-7=2”noted as per draft

6-8-1” as  per draft

3-9-=2” as per draft

Long sleeve part

1-2-sleeve length .1 / (2 ^ – 1) * 1 cuff with

h >= 1 degrees

1.3 – mm chest c

3-4-1/4th chest .1 / (2 ^ – 1) 5.2% cuff IN

5.6-1/2^ – as per draft

7- middle or 5-2 measure

. 7-8-4 ½” pocket open.

9 =½” or 1-4.

. . 9.-10 – 1 degrees * 4 10 1 back arm shape is to be drawn

11 middle of 9-4 measure

12 – 113\%4 per draft 4 12 9. 1.draw the front arm as per draft

Cuff draft:

1- 2 = cuff  width

1-3 cuff length to be cut on fusible interlining as stiffer portion.

• Sleeve pocket length 5″

• Width 11/4^ –

. Box 1 ¼” as ready portion and added all around ” for seam margin

Collar part:

1-.2 =  neck measure

. 2 – 4=2”  as standard.

.2.5=3/8^ prime as per draft

4-6-3/8″ as per draft.

7-.5 collar point 3.1/8″

Neck band:

⚫ 8-.9=½”  neck measure

 9-10 1 3/8″ as per draft

11-8-1 3/8″ as per draft.

10-12 1 3/8″ as per draft

10-14= 1/8″ as per draft.

To be cut fusible interlining allow to cut self fabric along with seam margin necessarily ½” .

Drafting and Cutting of Saree Blouse

Measurements Needed

Shoulder measurement :

Taken between two shoulder ends or nape of the neck to one shoulder end and doubled. When neckline depth is more than 1/6th of the bust round, shoulder measurement is taken about 3cm to 4cm less on each side.

Armscye Depth or Armhole Depth: 

Taken by direct measurement or calculated from the Bust Circumference

It is the  best to measure the armscye depth directly on the body for accurate measurement. It is measured straight from the shoulder end to about ½  an inch below the armpit Armscye depth varies from 13cm-18 (or about 5 inch – 7 inch) in the increasing order from the small sizes to the larger ones.

Armscye depth can be calculated from the bust circumference in many of the ways by different dressmakers  for different outfits.

For a sari blouse, following calculation is found to be the best

                                                                 1/6th of Bust Circumference

Front & Back Neck depths:

Taken directly on the body or taken from an existing garment.

Bust Circumference:

Taken around the fullest part of the bust.

Waist Circumference:

Taken around the navel point.

Bust Point or Pivot Point:

Taken straight down the shoulder to the bust point

Waist Length:

Taken from the nape of the neck to the desired length of the blouse 

Drafting & Cutting Instructions For A Basic Blouse With Waistline Dart

Front part:

1 Square down centre front line and shoulder lines.

 Centre Front Line: Waist Length + 1cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist

Shoulder Line: %% of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance. Shoulders can be taken square or sloped. This depends on the garment to be made. Since a sari blouse is usually of wide neck, no slope is suggested here.

2 Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations. 

3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth Draw front armhole shape about 1cm inward

this dropped line.

4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Front Line Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 5cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. Give a rounded shape at the sides

Drafting and Cutting of Saree Blouse

Measurements Needed

Shoulder  Measurement

Taken between two shoulder ends or nape of the neck to one shoulder end and doubled.  When neckline depth is more than 1/6th of the bust round, shoulder measurement is taken about 3cm to 4cm less on each side.

Armscye Depth or Armhole Depth: 

Taken by direct measurement or calculated from the Bust Circumference

It is the best to measure the armscye depth directly on the body for accurate measurement. It is measured straight from the shoulder end to about an inch below the armpit Armscye depth varies from 13cm-18 cm  (or about 5 inch – 7 inch) in the increasing order from the small sizes to the larger ones

Armscye depth can be calculated from the bust circumference in many of the ways by different dressmaker for different outfits.

For a sari blouse, following calculation is found to be the best

1/6th of Bust Circumference

Front & Back Neck depths:

Taken directly on the body or taken from an existing garment

Bust Circumference:

Taken around the fullest part of the bust.

Waist Circumference:

 Taken around the navel point.

Bust Point or Pivot Point:

Taken straight down the shoulder to the bust point

.Waist Length:

Taken from the nape of the neck to the desired length of the blouse.

 Drafting & Cutting Instructions For A Basic Blouse With Waistline Dart

Front part:

1 Square down centre front line and shoulder lines Centre Front Line Waist Length + 1cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist

Shoulder Line: ½”  of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance. Shoulder can be taken square of sloped. This depends up on the garment to be made. Since a sari blouse is usually of wide neck, no slope is suggested here.

2 Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations. 

3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth Draw front armhole shape about 1cm inward

this dropped line.

4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Front Line Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 5cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. Give a rounded shape at the sides

                                  Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse

                                       (With Waist Line Darts)

Front Bodice

Dart: Take 1/12th of the Bust Circumference + 2. 5cm at waist from the centre front: Draw an upright line. 

Measurement  a point at about 3cm from the waist (Note: This will be the starting point of the waist, exactly under the  bust part)

>>Mark a Dart of about 5cm here taking 2.5cm on each side Measure and mark Bust Point on the same line  from the shoulder Dart point will be about 2cm below the bust point.  Draw a dart as shown 

6.Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waistline.

7.Draw desired front neckline.

8.Cut along the highlighted outline excluding the darts as shown.

Back Part:

1 Square down centre back line and shoulder lines

Centre Back Line: Waist Length + 1 cm for seam allowance at shoulder 1cm seam allowance at waist

Shoulder Line % of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance 

2.Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Back Line Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease+ 5 Sem seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations

3.Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth Draw back armhole shape on this dropped line

4.Square WaistLine at the bottom of the Centre Back Line Take 1/4th Waist Circumference+2cm dart allowance +5cm seam allowance You may need to shape the waistline a little to match it to the front

5.Dart: Mark a dart on the waist line at 1/12th of Bust Circumference + 1cm This dart is about 7cm in length

with 1cm width on each side.

6 Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waistline.

                                 Basic Pattern For Sari Blouse 

                                       (With Waist Line Darts)

Back Bodice

7.Draw desired back neckline. This is usually kept deeper than that in the front.

8. Cut along the highlighted outline as shown

Fastening

Fastening can be given in the centre front or in the centre back Add  1 cm  seam allowance for the attachment of hook  and eye fastening strips

Significance of Having A Basic Bodice Pattern 

This is the basic most  pattern for sari blouse exclusive of waist bands and extra darts. Assembling is simple for the apprentices.

Any style variation in the neckline can be tried on this pattern For high necks, a shoulder slope is given is the basic most pattern for the apprentices.

This pattern helps as a base for all the types of princess lines. For details on princess lines, click here Just eliminate the darts without a need to press the design as given here

Easy to increase length.

Back or front clasp styles are easily modified. This pattern is without the seam allowance for fastening. 1 cm  seam allowance is to be added at the centre (front or back) to give an opening .

Drafting and Cutting of Kurta/Kameez

Kurta and/or Kameez are traditional costumes of India. It is used along with Salwar, Churidar or denim pants The Collar or the neckline can be shaped according to style This garment is cut into three pieces, the front, back and sleeve. Darts are used to give fit or shape to the garment. The creation of Kameez may look long but it is very easy, just follow the instructions and you will end up with your own Kameez top

The construction of Kameez may look long but it is very easy, just follow the instructions and you will end up with your own Kameez top.

Measurement

.Square Neck :                              14 Inches

Across Shoulder :                          14 inches

Chest :                                           36 inches

Waist :                                           28 inches

. Hip:                                             38 inches

. Length of Top :                           25  inches

Material Required:

1% Mtrs of fabric

Construction-Front

(0-1) = Kameez length (desired length)

(0-2)  =Armhole depth = % chest-1″(for Medium figure) or 2″(for heavier figure)

(2-3) = Chest line = % chest 1″ (for Tight fit) or 2″ (for loose fit)

(5-6) = Shoulder drop- 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6)=% shoulder

(0-7) = Neck width

(0-9) = Front neck depth.

X is mid point of 6-6.  (xx) = 1cm

Shape (6-x-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x 3 it should be more than armhole by 3 to 4cms.

 (0-10) = waist length

(10-11)% waist  1″ or 2″ (same as chest line)

 (0-12) =  Hip length

(12-13) Hip line = % hip+2″

(1-4) same as hip line 

1″ up for shaping

(4-4) = 1’ up for shaping        Join (1-4′) hem line

(4’- 13) Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line) 

Cutting line:

9-7-6-x-3-11-13-4′-1       (9-1) on fold

Construction – Back

 (0-1)= Kameez length

 (0-2) = Armhole depth = % chest – 1″(for Medium figure) or 2″(for heavier figure) 

 (2-3) = Chest line = % chest + 1″ (for Tight fit) or 2″ (for loose fit)

 (5-6)= Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6′) = ½ shoulder

(0-7) = Neck width

 (0-8)= Back neck depth

(8-8’) = Back slit opening = 1/6 chest + 1″

X is mid point of 6-6′

Shape (6-x-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(10-11)=% waist + 1″ or 2″ (same as chest line)

(0-12) Hip length

(12-13) Hip line = % hip+2″

(1-4) = same as hip line

(4-4) = 1″ up for shaping    Join (1-4′) hem line

(4′ 13) = Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line)

  Cutting line :

     8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4′ 1                         (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8 on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than

neck circumference)

Construction: Sleeve:

(0-1) = Sleeve length

(0-2) = 1/8 chest-1½”

(2-3)  = ¼  Chest ¾”

 (1-4) = ½round arm

Join (3-4) under arm seam

X is the mid point of (0-3)

Take (x-x’) = 2 to 2.5cms up

Shape 0-x-3 front armhole curve

Shape 0-x-3 front armhole curve

Cutting line:

1-4-3-x-0 then cut through the first 2 layers 0-x-3

Seam Allowance:

1/4″ on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1″ on side seams

1%½” on hemlines

Drafting and Cutting of Pant

To draft your pants, you’ll need to do a little math. First, take your child’s hip measurement and divide it by 2 Then add 9 inches. Call this number A. Next, add the rise plus the inseam Call this number B. Draw a rectangle that is A wide by B tall.

Draw a line across the rectangle between the inseam and rise lengths. Bring the sides of the rectangle in as shown at the rise line. The 1″ side is the front of the pants, the 2″ side is the back.

Curve the corners to create the crotch lines. At the front edge, drop the line 2 inches and redraw it – this way the waist will cover your kid’s booty but not come up uncomfortably high in the front.

Bring the bottom corners of each pants leg in 1 1/2″. Measure the waistline – you’ll need that measurement to create the waistband.

If you want cuffs, trace out a rectangle that covers the part of the pants you want to be the cuff. Don’t follow the angle of the pants leg at the bottom; keep your rectangle with 90 degree corners. Cut off your pants pattern at this line, separating the pants and the cuff. Add seam allowances all around the pants piece.

The waistband will be cut on the fold, so add a seam allowance to the top and side edge, then double this rectangle in height for the final waistband piece (because it will be folded in half to form the casing).

Industry Visit

The purpose of visiting a tailor shop/boutique is to get hands on knowledge about various processes involved in work of a tailor. During the visit you have to interact with Tailors and owner of the shop to understand how done in a tailor shop/boutique Make sure that you keep a notebook handy and note down any important The points that come up during your interaction at the tailor shop/boutique When you go to an tailor shop/boutique you should:

Understand drafting and cutting

Gather the information about the material equipment and measurement required for drafting and cutting. 

 Analyse how a tailor do drafting and cutting of long sleeve shirt, saree blouse, kurta/kameez and pant

Ask questions to Tailors/shop owners if you have any query