Stitching

Unit Objectives

At the end of this unit, you will be able to

1 Recognize the different parts of a trouser and a shirt

2 Stitch trouser and shirt

Trouser Stitching

Parts of a trouser

Preparation of Pocket Bag (front)

Step 1: Take both the upper facing pieces and put overlock stitch on the longer straight sides. Make sure the face side of the pieces is on top

Step 2: Take both the lower facing pieces and put overlock stitch on the curved des Again make sure that the face side of the pieces are on the top

                                            Note the notch marks on the lower facing places

 Note that the overlock stitch is on the curved sides.

Step 3 : Take both of the pocket bag pieces and both upper facing pieces Keep the upper facing piece over the pocket bag in such a way that the overlock part is facing inside and the stitch is facing upwards

Step 4 : Put the lockstitch at the edge of the overlock stitch. 

Step 5 : Take both the tower facing pieces  and keep them over the other side of the  pocket bag.

Step 6: Put the lockstitch at the edge of the overlock curved stitch.

Pocket Attaching (front)

Step 1: Take the two front pieces and keep them on the sewing Fig with the face side up

Step 2: Take the pocket bag and place it  over the left front piece aligning with the mouth of the pocket

Step 3: Put 6 mm stitch taking ¼  line on throat plate as guide, starting from the top to bottom.

Step 4: Turn the piece and put 4 mm stitch at the mouth of the pocket.

 Step 5: Match the lower facing and upper facing at thenotch  marks.

Step 6: Put 2 mm stitch starting from the waistline to the outer side of the left front piece.

 Step 7: Put 5 thread overlock stitches on the curved portion of the pocket bag.

Step 8: Take the other pocket bag and place it  over the right front piece aligning with the pocket bag (face to face).

Step 9: Repeat steps 3.7 for the right hand side pocket

Pocket Attaching (Back)

Step 1: Take a note of the notch marks and the pocket marking on the back plece

Step 2: Fold the fabric at the centre notch mark and make a dart by starting to stitch on the notch mark till the centre marking

   Step 3 : Take one of the back pocket bags.  Place it below the back piece in such a way that the top end of the back piece and the pocket bag are perfectly aligned Make sure that pocket bag is aligned centrally to the dart

Step 4: Take one of the fused bone pieces  and place it over the pocket markings In such a way that the top marks are visible  and the bottom marks are covered by the bone pieces and are at equal distance from both sides.

Step 5 : Now put a 6 mm stitch starting from back rise side towards the side seam: side The first stitch should be at the notch mark side. Put back tack, both at the beginning and end of the stitch.

Step 6: Take the second fused bone piece and place it next to the stitched bone piece on the waist side 

Step 7: Put 6 mm stitch starting from the side seam side towards the back rise side.

Step 8: Cut the fabric between the two bones leaving 10-12 mm on both sides.

                   Step 9: Put 6 mm stitch starting from the side seam side towards the back rise side

Step 10: Cut the fabric between the two bones leaving 10-12 mm on both sides.

Step 11: Put a stitch on the edge of the folded portion next to the stitched portion.

  Step 12:  Repeat steps 10  and 11 for the other bone

              Step 13: Push the balance fabric inside.

 Step 14: Put a stitch at the end of the cut portion

    Step 15: Put overlock stitch at the loose end of the bottom bone piece. 

 Step 16: Attach bone piece with the pocket bag using lockstitch.

 Step 17: Put overlock stitch on the back pocket facing.

Step 18: Take the other piece of the pocket bag Place the back pocket facing on top of the pocket bag at a distance of 2% inches from top of the pocket bag.

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Step 19: Put a lockstitch  Over the overlock  portion.

Step 20: Take the first pocket bag, which is already sewn to the back piece. Place the other pocket bag over it. Both the bags should match perfectly

Step 21:  Now put a stitch at the inner side to join the two pocket bags together.

Step 22: Put 5-thread overlock stitches starting from right (back rise side) to the left side.

Step 23: Put 3 mm lockstitch at the waistline, starting from the left towards the right, to stitch the loose top end of the pocket bag with the fabric.