Fashion Designing Notes

Fibre in Fashion

Applications

Apparel – pantyhose, stockings, leggings, etc.

Home furnishing

Industrial applications – parachutes, tyre cords, ropes, airbags, hoses, etc.

Polyester

In polyester, the fibre forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, but not restricted to substituted terapthalate units and para-substituted hydroxybenzoate units.

In producing such fibres, the basic elements of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen are polymerised. Variations are possible in the methods of production, in the combination of ingredients and in the ultimate molecular structures of the fibre forming substance.

Characteristics

  • Thermoplastic
  • Good strength
  • Hydrophobic (non absorbent)

Applications  –    Apparel – woven and knits, shirts, pants, jackets, hats etc.

  •              Home furnishing – bed sheets, blankets, upholstered furniture, cushioning material
  •              Industrial uses – conveyor belts, safety belts, tyre reinforcement

Spandex

The fibre forming substance used to produce spandex is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% of segmented polyurethane. Variations are possible when producing this fibre.

The basic elements of nitrogen, hydrogen, carbon and oxygen are synthesised with other substances to ethyl ester compounds in polymer chains of soft segments or sections that provide stretch and harder segments that hold the chain together.

Trademarks of three spandex fibres are Cleer-span, Glospan and Lycra.

Characteristics

  • Highly elastic
  • Comfortable
  • High shape retention
  • Durable

Applications

  • Never used alone, but always blended with other fibres
  • Apparel and clothing items with stretch for comfort and fit
  • Hosiery
  • Foundation garments
  • Swimwear, athletic, aerobic apparel
  • Lingerie, leggings and socks
  • Shaped garments e.g. bra cups
  • AcrylicSofa

In acrylics, the fibre forming substance is any long chain polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units. Using complicated processes, carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen, the basic elements are synthesised with small amounts of other chemicals into larger polymer combinations. Variations are possible in the methods of production, in the combination of ingredients and in the ultimate molecular structures of the fibre forming substance.

Characteristics

Soft, warm handling characteristics similar to wool

Resilient

Shape retentive

Applications

Apparel

Home furnishing

3. Man-made – Protein Fibres

The protein from such products as corn and milk has been processed chemically and converted into fibre. However, such fibres are not commercially successful.

4. Man-made – Rubber Fibres

The fibre forming substance is comprised of natural and synthetic rubber. The treated rubber is produced in strands, so that the cross-section is either round or square and the longitudinal surface is relatively smooth.Iridescent

5. Man-made – Metallic Fibres

These fibres are composed of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal. These fibres are usually produced in flat, narrow, smooth strips which possess high lustre.

Applications

Decorative yarns in apparel and home furnishing items. 

6. Man-made – Mineral Fibres

Various minerals have been manufactured into glass, ceramic and graphite fibres having prescribed properties for specific uses.

Glass

Although glass is a hard and inflexible material, it can be made into a fine, translucent textile fibre that has an appearance and feel of silk.

Natural minerals such as silica sand, limestone, soda ash, borax, boric acid, feldspar and fluorspar have been fused under very high temperatures into glass which is processed into a fibre.

Characteristics

Inert

Highly flame resistant

Applications 

Heat resistant industrial applications 

Textile Fibre Parameters

Fibrous materials should possess certain properties to become a suitable textile raw material. Properties which are essential for acceptance as a suitable raw material may be classified as ‘primary properties’. The other properties which add specific desirable character or aesthetics to the end product and its use may be classified as ‘secondary properties’.

Primary Properties

1. Length

2. Tenacity (strength)

3. Flexibility

4. Cohesion

5. Uniformity of properties

Secondary Properties

1. Physical shape

2. Specific gravity (influence weight, cover etc.)

3. Moisture regain and absorption (comfort, static electricity etc.)

4. Elastic character

5. Thermo plasticity (softening point and heat – set character)

6. Dyeability

7. Resistance to solvents, corrosive chemicals, micro-organisms and environmental conditions

8. Flammability

9. Lustre

Physical Properties

Cotton

PropertyCharacteristics
Microscopic appearanceFlat, twisted and ribbon-like
LengthStaple fibre, length ranges from 1 to 5.5 cm
ColourCreamy white in natural form, unless treated
LustreMedium, unless treated for lustre
StrengthFair
ElasticityLow
ResilienceLow
Moisture absorptionExcellent
HeatWill withstand moderate heat / Decomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150°C / 320°F or over
FlammabilityBurns readily

Linen

PropertyCharacteristics
Microscopic appearanceCross-section is made up of irregular polygonal shapes
LengthLong staple, 25 to 120 cms
ColourOff white
LustreHigh
StrengthGood
ElasticityLow
ResilienceLittle
Moisture absorptionGood
HeatWill withstand moderate heat
FlammabilityScorches and flames readily 

Wool

PropertyCharacteristics
Microscopic appearanceCrimped
LengthStaple fibre, up to 40 cms
ColourGenerally creamy white, some breeds of sheep produce natural colours such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes.
LustreHigh
StrengthHigh
ElasticityGood
ResilienceHigh
Moisture absorptionTends to repel initially, but good absorption.
HeatBecomes harsh at 100°C / 212°F, decomposes at slightly higher temperatures.
FlammabilityScorches at 204°C / 400°F, will char