Tailoring class notes 2
Understanding Tailoring Terms
LINING :
An extra cloth attached under the main garment is known as lining Used mainly under
transparent materials, lining gives the garment extra strength as well as finishing
INTER LINING: An extra layer put in between the main garment and the lining is known as inter
lining
SEAM ALLOWANCE:
The margin kept for stitching the garment is known as seam allowance.
This means
that after drafting the neck, armhole, want and chest, about 4cm margin is kept and then another line
drawn which is the stitching guide this is known as the seam allowance
SELVEDGE : The finished edge of the cloth which is a self-finished edge at the time of weaving is
known as
selvedge
PANELS : Strips of cloth joined in a garment for fashion or to increase the width are known as
panels
SEAM: Seams are the basis of a garment it is used to attach two pieces of cloth. After cutting the
various parts of the garment from a piece of cloth it is these seams either sewn by hand or with the
help of a machine which give those various pieces of cloth the shape of a garment
DART: Without spoiling the shape of the garment, and in order to give a perfect fit, a small amount of
cloth
is folded and stitched with a single strand till the other end This process is called putting a dart it is
used at
various places on the garment like bust dart, waist dart etc. to give fitting or fullness to shape
PLEATS : A fold taken from the inside of a garment and held in place by a stitch is known as a pleat.
These are of many types like straight pleats, inverted pleats etc. These are used either as a design
element or to provide fullness or fitting.
7
TUCKS: Folding the cloth a little from the right side and stitching in a straight line is known as
putting a tuck This is also used to enhance the beauty of the garment or to provide a better fit. If these
stitched lines appear of the thickness of a pin then they are known as pin tucks.
Types of Fabric
Unit Objectives
At the end of this unit, you will be alto 3g the offers
Types of Fabric
NATURAL FABRICS SYNTHETIC
FABRIC
Corduroy Acetate
Cotton Acrylic
Denim Nylon
Flannel Polar Fleece
Hemp Pollster
Leather Rayon
Linen Spandex
Wool
Fabric Commonly used for Garment Sewing
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fibre. it is a delicate fabric and is very light weight and due
to these features it has a free flowing and smooth dipe R ghly shimmery
appearance it is a difficult fabric to work with as its very slippery, its elasticity is
very moderate to poor Apparels made of silk have to be
Dry cleaned
Velvet
Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric Good quality velvet is made of cotton or
polyester. The most expensive velvet is made of silk and sold today as Silk
Velvet Velvet has a smooth soft and rich touch and often used in evening wear
and also extensively used for upholstery Apparels made of velvet have to be
Dry cleaned
Chiffon
Chiffon is a sheer fabric with a free flowing drape and crepe like structure
Ouffon is usually made of silk or polyester. It is very light and the and these
features make it a very challenging material to sew Chiffon in a popular
fabric for summer garments because of its light weight
Satin
Satin has a sleek and glossy finish. It is made of silk
cotton and wool. It is well draping and is popularly used in dresses, bridal wear
and bedding Thicker wool satin is used for coats. It also makes a great lining
fabric Its slippery nature makes it very difficult to work
with.
Corduroy
Corduroy is normally made from Cotton It is very similar to Velvet it is a
thick fabric which is very warm and durable it is normally used in making
coats trousers and winter wear Corduroys are machine washable.
Linen
Linen is very popular in summers because it releases and absorbs perspiration
easily, It is very soft, cool and comfortable Linen wrinkles very easily and has
to be ironed on high temperature to remove the creases. It has very little
elasticity. Linen is most popularly used in household goods such as bedding,
towels and table clothes.
Denim
Denim is made from tightly woven cotton it is a very heavy weight fabric with
very little drape or stretch Denim is very durable and that is why most
commonly used in jeans it is machine washable.
Polyester
It is a synthetic fabric It is strong and durable but does not absorb heat, so it
is not a very popular fabric for hot temperatures. It does not wrinkle and
dries very easily.
Rayon
Rayon is a manufactured fibre made of cellulose Like
polyester Rayon is also strong and durable but it wrinkles very easily. It is very soft
and comfortable and drapes very well. Hand washing
best for washable rayon garments.
Flannel
flannel annel is made from wool, cotton or synthetic fibre It is a soft and light
weight fabric Flannel maybe brushed to create extra softness. It is popularly
used for shirts, pants and jackets suitable for colder temperatures
Organza
It is made of ether or polyester it is a delicate and sheer fabric and very
popularly used in evening wear and bridal apparel. The delicate nature of
the fabric makes it very difficult to sew
Wool
Wool is made from variety of animal coats. There are around 200 different types of
wool. It absorbs and releases moisture quickly and is a very popular fabric used
for cold weather garments It is hardwearing and resists wear and tear
Leather
Most commonly made of animal hide. Leather is very
durable and absorbs and releases heat quickly so it a very popularly used in
winters for jackets and skirts. It is also used in upholstery Most leather
garments require special care in storing and cleaning
