Stitching a Saree Blouse
Measurements needed
.Chest
.Full length of the blouse
.Shoulder
.Sleeve length
.Sleeve round
. Front length-Measured from shoulder along the highest point of bust to where bra cup ends.
Process
Front A to B= front length + ½”
A to C= 1/2 shoulder+1/4 “
On the line A- B mark D such that A- D=¼ chest 1 1%4” or 1 ½”.
A D is called scye depth it varies with chest measurement it can be calculated using the chest measurement it can also be measured directly on the body it is measured from the nape of the neck downwards to a line that
joins armpits.
Scye depth for various breast measurements:
28″ to 30”=¼” chest-¾”to 1”
31″ to 33”= ¼” chest-1″ to 1 ¼”
34″ to 36 = ¼” chest 1 ½”to 2″
37″ to 39”= ¼ chest-2 ¼” to 2 ¾”
40 to 42 = ¼ chest 3″ to 3 ½”
Draw perpendicular lines from the points D and B to the line AB.
On the line A-C mark G such that A G the neck width 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark H on A- B such that A -H neck depth=1/8th chest or to taste.
Shape front neck curve H-G
Mark D- E= ¼ chest +1 +1/2
Mark F such that B-F=D-E.
Produce D-E to K such that E-K=”
Mark L on B-F such that L-F = ½” Join K- L.
On the line D-E mark point I such that D-1 = ½ “ less than A-C Join I-C.
On the line I-C mark point R such that C-R = ½” or ¾”
Join G-R On the line I-C mark a point j such that 1-J-1”
Shape the scye round R-J E-K.
On the line D-E mark a point S such that D-S=1/12th chest + ¾”
On the line A-B mark point M such that B-M-1”.
Join M-L by a curved line as shown in the figure.
.
Drop a perpendicular from the point S..
This line meets the curved line M-L at P. On this line Mark point T which is the bust point it can be marked in two ways.
1. Mark T such that distance S-T=1/8th chest 1 ½”
2. Actual bust length is measured from the shoulder line to the highest point of the bust. Mark T along the line U-T passing through S such that U-T is equal to is the bust length.
Darts:
. All the darts should point towards the bust point T and end 1/2″ away from T.
Mark N on the line A-B such that D-N=S-T Take ½” or ¾ “ dart
At point P a dart of 1 ¼” to 2″ dart of required length is taken
On the line K-L mark a point O such that O-L=1″ take a dart of ¾ “ wide and of required length.
At the point J take a dart of ½” wide of required length.
Belt:
U-V= Full length of the blouse -Front length +½”.
V-W=B to F-1/2″( size of the dart taken).
W-X=U-V-1″.
Shape the curve U-X identical to the curve M-L.
Back:
A-B=Full length of the blouse +1″
A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse
Join X-Y
Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B.
A-C= ½ shoulder ¼” Mark D-E= ¼ chest+1 ½”
Mark F such that B-F =D-E.
1- F= ½ “Join E-I.
On the line A-C mark G such that A- G the neck width= 1/8th chest or to tastes.
Mark K on A- B such that A-K= Back neck depth= 1/12th chest or to taste
Shape back neck curve K-G.
On the line D-E mark H such that D-H = A-C.
Join H-C. On the line H-C mark a point R such that C-R = 1”
Shape the Back scye round R-E. B- L = 1/12 th chest+½”
A dart L-M of ½”” width and of required length is taken here.
Sleeves A- B= sleeve length + ½”
. K- A=1* for folding:
From the points B ,A and K draw perpendiculars.
B-C is as A-D= scye depth of the body taken while drawing body drafted ½” to 1 ½”.
For smaller sizes B-C is equal to the scye depth.
B – C = K – L.
Join C-L
Mark D on the line C-L such that D – C = 1/8 * th chest ½” It should be between 3 to 3 ½” B-J=1”.
Join D-B. F is the middle point of D = B F-H= ¾” G is the middle point of D-F . 1-G =½”
Shape the front scye curve of the sleeves D-I-F-J-B and Back scye curve of the sleeves D-H-J-B. A-E= ½ sleeve round + 1″ for seams.
Join L-E.
Parts of a blouse:
Prepare the draft and separate each part.
Label all pattern pieces.
. Mark “place on fold “ on the centre – line of the back.
Add ½” extension along the line of opening of the front to attach buttom – stand .(Shows by shaded area).
Mark the centre of sleeve top.
Place the parts of the draft on the fabric and cut the parts.
Stitching:
.Step 1: Stay stitch neck, arm scyes and sleeve top.
Step 2: Stitch darts.
Step 3: Attach the belt to the body.
Step 4: Stitch button stands. Right side should overlap the left side Extension is stitched to the left side and right
Side is finished with a facing.
Step 5: Join shoulders.
Step 6: Finish neck line with Piping or flat facing.
Step 7: Hem the lower edge of the sleeves and back.
Step 8: Attach sleeves to the body, matching centre line of the sleeves to the shoulder line and easing wherever necessary.
Step 9: Stitch sides of the sleeves and body.
Step 10: Sew hook on the underside of right button stand and work eyes on the right side of left front facing.
Right side of R SLEEVE
