Tailoring Class Notes-5

Bust Alterations

Since the bust area is the most difficult to fit being the rounded part of the body Check the

be neither too tight nor too loose Big are not very effective in the area especially for de

Garments Bust with a large cup: As you know women with the same bust size have different cup sums There the garment to be right over the bust area. Draw a upright stash line from the shoulder p the bust point to the other edge of the pattern, passing through the waistline dart Draw

this line at the burst point from center front to the side seam Slash on all lines and spread the pattern adding at the bust area without increasing at the shoulder The added width at the side seam and waistline should be taken in a dart. If the dart intake is very big it is advisable to convert it into two darts

Bust with a small cup:

Draw vertical slash line from the shoulder passing through the bust point to the other edge of the pattern passing through the waistline dart Draw a perpendicular to this line at the bust point from center front to the side seam Sech on all lines and overlap the pattern without reducing on the shoulder

Hip pattern alterations

Faming problems in this are manifest themselves in wrinkling, pulling, sagging and uneven hemlines

Small hips

Draw a vertical slash line from the want to the hem of the skirt pattern Draw a Horta e from Centre back to the side seam passing through the fullest part of the hip Slash the pattern on both the nets and overlap width woe to remove execs without loosing at the west, unless the drake can be taken out for ease Overlap length wise to remove excess without loosing at the side seam True the seam

Large hips: Draw a vertical slash Sine from the waist to the hem of the skirt pattern: Draw a horizontal line from center back to the side seam pining through the fullest part of the hip Slash the pattern on both the tines and spread width wise to fullness, the added ease may be taken in the dart intake Spread lengthwise to add fullness without adding at the side seam. True the seam lines Given below are some of the common faming problems that would necessitate pattern alterations with lustrated

solutions by draping method

  1. Problem Folds below the bust dart Solution Undo the dart and part of the side seam Lift shoulder

a little re-pin a bigger dart and pin the side seam to take out the excess fabric

Fig 417 Folds below the bust dort

2 Problem- Low waist.

Solution: Tie a band around the waist and remark the waistline

Remove and re-pin the skirt to new waistline

Low wast

oblem-Baggy below the hip.

union Raise the skirt at back only and re-pin

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